WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY TECHNIQUE – FOCUS
Wildlife photography is probably the area in which you have to best understand and utilize your camera’s focus system. Animals move, run, fly and require attention of how you use your focus system to get a good shot. There are many settings you can change and move from on to another in order to adapt best for different scenes.
Using your focus system correctly in wildlife photography can greatly improve the results you get. Each cameras has different abilities and settings for the focus system and drive (continuous shooting) and you should know yours properly to get the maximum out of it.
There are 3 main things to consider here:
1. The number of focus points you use.
2. Using Lock-Focus (AF-S in Nikon or Single in Canon) or Continuous-Focus (AF-C in Nikon or AI servo in Canon).
3. Drive: Using single shooting or continuous shooting.
I usually divide it into 2 main situations:
1. stationary scene:
When you and the subject are both stationary.
– Use one focus point. It is the most accurate to put the focus on what you want.
– Use Lock-Focus. it is more accurate than continuous focus and also makes a beep signal when focus is locked.
– Use either single or continuous shooting as you wish. If you don’t want to waste room in your memory card or end up with too many photos use the single shooting. If you want to capture several frames for best result (for example shooting a Hippo yawn) use continuous shooting.
2. DYNAMIC SCENE:
When you or your subject is moving.
– Use more than one focus point. If you or your subject are moving and you try to track it, it is more than likely you won’t be able to constantly hold your focus point on your subject, there for it is recommended to use more than one focus point. It is mostly recommended if your camera has an option to use a cluster of focus points that enlarge the area of focus. That way, when you track a subject in motion you have more chance of not missing it.
– Use Continuous-Focus. It allows the camera to keep track of your subject and keeps focusing on it even if it changes distance from you. If you use Lock-Focus and the subject changes distance from you, you will lose focus and the subject will be out of focus.
– Use continuous shooting. When shooting animals in motion we usually want to capture them in the best position, like when the cheetah is running and spreads its legs being completely air born or when a hummingbird is just touching the flower it feeds of.
SWITCHING BETWEEN FOCUS MODES:
One of the biggest challenges in wildlife photography is that the scenery constantly change. You might shoot a leopard sitting on a tree and the next moment it will jump. Animals move and pause and if you want to use the best settings for each situation you should try to maximize the speed you can move between focus settings. Few advices about switching between modes:
1. Some cameras have options for customizing buttons. If you can customize a button to switch between lock-focus to continuous-focus it can help you shoot better in a scene an animal moves and pauses.
2. If you have the option to use the camera joystick or buttons to move the focus point around the frame quickly it can help you compose better and faster.
3. Many cameras today have custom exposure programs like C1/C2 in canon or U1/U2 in Nikon. In this function you can have a preset of values like exposure mode (Manual, Aperture priority, shutter priority), focus mode, drive, focus points and more. That way you can quickly switch between programs that suite stationary or dynamic scenes.
SWITCHING BETWEEN FOCUS MODES:
There really isn’t a better advice I can give about this. First you should get to know your camera and see how you can customize it so you can choose the focus settings you need quickly and have the ability to switch between focus modes efficiently. After that its practice practice until you can control it almost blindly!
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